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3 июля 2008, 04:40     более 9-и лет назад

мотопутешественница Danielle Murdoch (New Zealand)

Помимо прочего, путешествия интересны тем, что позволяют (если вы достаточно общительны) познакомиться со многими интересными людьми.

В апреле 2008 года этого года на глухой дороге на севере Камбоджи, преодолев самый сложный участок пути, я увидел приближающегося мотоциклиста.
Остановились. С интересом присмотрелись друг к другу. Сняли шлемы.
Одиноким мотопутешественником оказалась симпатичная девушка.
Разговорились. Оказалось, девушка из Новой Зеландии, и в настоящий момент В ОДИНОЧКУ путешествует по Индокитаю на СВОЁМ мотоцикле.

Вначала доставила свой мотоцикл самолётом в Тайланд (Бангкок), проехала на нём через Тайланд в Лаос, после Лаоса — в Камбоджу. Проехала вначале до ПномПеня, потом вдоль вьетнамской границы через провинции РатанаКири и МондулКири до СтунгТренг, и переправившись через Меконг на пароме, ехала нам навстречу.
http://blog.junglecambodia.ru/files/20080703.Danielle_in_JungleCambodia.jpg

Обменялись «путевыми заметками» о состоянии дорог. Она сообщила, что впереди песчанные дороги, я «обрадовал» её, что позади нас — несколько больших луж и участки с грязью. Однако к счастью, после сложного участка будет достаточно крупная деревня, чтобы отдохнуть и набраться сил.
Она оставила координаты «правильного» гестхауза в СенМонором.
Потом потрепались ещё минут пять, обменялись контактами и каждый поехал своей дорогой.

По возвращению в Москву, у нас с ней завязалась дружеская переписка.
Она писала, что всё ещё в Камбодже. Что я оказался прав, и дорога настолько была ужасной и изматывающей, что она еле добралась до деревни. В деревне она не только отдохнула, но и нашла экспатов — семейную пару из Австралии, которые однажды приехали в эту глуш и остались здесь жить.
Потом она писала, что ехала вдоль границы с Тайландом и на каждом перекрёстке её проверяли военные.
Я получил ещё одно подтверждение честности одного из своих камбоджийский партнёров, который перенёс встречу с важным человеком с апреля на май, сказав что «генерал сейчас на границе с Тайландом, идёт очередная разметка границы и устанавливают пограничные столбы».

Кстати, тот камбоджиец рассказал удивительную историю… Дескать во времена, когда Пол Пот контролировал север страны и его поддерживали тайцы, его «тайские союзники» меняли русло реки (выкапывали новое русло и пускали реку), по которой шла граница на одном из участков. Причём меняли русло реки неоднократно, отъедая значительные куски территории у Камбоджи. С тех пор тот участок границы был спорным…

И вот через этот район Даниель проехала на своём мотоцикле до СиемРипа, потом через Сисофон в Баттамбанг (где встретила камбоджийский новый год) и вернулась в ПномПень… фактически, проехала в одиночку по периметру Камбоджи…
потом она купила новый мотоцикл и съездила во Вьетнам http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=113449&l=b00a3&id=776195276,

вернулась в ПномПень, оттуда рванула на юг отдохнуть на необитаемом острове недалеко от города Кеп.

Сейчас в её планах — после Индокитая посетить РОССИЮ (прибытие 14 июля) — доплыть до Владивостока, и потом ехать в течение пары месяцев до МОСКВЫ (с заездом по дороге в Монголию).

Itinerary
Arrival date 14 july
Length of stay 3 months
Cities to be visited Vladivostok, Chita, Ulan-Ude, Novosibirk, Moscow
Single, double or multi-entry double entry

Trip particulars
Reason for your trip To experience the Russian culture
Were are you going to stay in Russia? Hotels

Where do you plan to apply for your visa? Cambodia — Phnom Penh
Method of travel (plane, train, car) Motorbike

Потрясающая и удивительная девушка!

Пока мы с ней переписывались (я обещал ей помочь с invitation letter от частного лица, на основании которого она могла получить 3х месячную российскую визу в консульстве России в ПномПене) я узнал, что она по профессии архитектор, ей 27 лет, она незамужем…

http://blog.junglecambodia.ru/files/20080703.Danielle_Murdoch.jpg

Ниже, для знатоков английского языка, выдержки из моей с ней переписки:

So after my crazy adventure, i was a bit hesitant to do anything as crazy as that for a while. I was kind of looking forward to some nice, smooth roads for a couple of days, and i guess to be around some people too. The town i was staying in was great, i got to be well known as i was the only balang (foreigner) there. I should tell you about my guest house — it was pretty good for $5, it had my own bathroom and a TV and a bug screen over the window. At night these bugs would come out of know where and fly around my room, every now and then they would hit me or crawl into bed with me — They don’t bite, its just that they are prickly and when you roll over you can feel them. In the morning the floor was covered in bugs. In the hall way there were millions…. by the time i got back from my breakfast they had been all swept up. The next night i went on a rampage and kill them as they came out from theri holes. That night none slept with me!

I left to head north up to the Thai boarder. I heard there was a great temple to visit. The roads were a lot better today, but i was really nervous, as there was a lot of police on every corner. I finally come across a convention that all these police had been at. I took a guess that there must of been someone important there.

I get to a small village, just after lunch and decide to stay there- I’m still really tired from the other day. My room only cost $2.5. the only word you need to describe it is — horse stable. Power turned on a 7pm and turned off at 9 or 10pm… i didn’t was as the water in the washing room looked like it had some sort of bugs living on top. But everyone in the village was friendly and nice. I ended up playing chase in the markets with a group of kids.

I rose early and eat breakfast at the market. And then headed for the temple that’s located on the Thai boarder. The road up to the temple was really steep and windy. i followed the scooter taxis up, so i knew exactly where to ride. When i got to the top i parked next to a drinks stand — to ensure that my bike and my luggage is going to be ok — you have to buy something off them when you get back, but its kind of safe.

The Parasat Preah Vihear Temple was great. i was climbing around with jeans and boots on, were everyone else was in singlets and shorts. I also want to get to my next town pretty quickly, so i rushed around the temple. The view from the top was fantastic. On one side you have Cambodia — dirt roads, timber building… on the other side you have Thailand. Paved roads… solid houses….it screams money.

I carried on following the best road I’ve seen in Cambodia. it was dirt was its was smooth. I could sail over it. A storm was coming i could see, so i was trying to bet it. Until i got that flat tire… i stopped to fix it my self, when a Khmer guy came over to help me. I was back on the road again, when i got another one. My tube is rubbing on the side of the tire — i m guessing it happened when i was sand riding, you need to tire pressure quite low… so i pulled over into a tire guys house and got it fixed. I finally reached my destination -Analong Veng — its a small working town close to the Thai boarder, so there are a mixture of people. I didn’t see a single Balang in the whole town. Tomorrow was Siem Reap…

Riding into Siem Reap was nice, you have to go through the Angkor Wat area, so i was riding past the temples i was going to see the next day. I got into Siem Reap with no traffic problems. I guess I’m getting use to the crazy traffic. I find a guest house and met a girl at lunch, we ended up going out for tea that night at the place that has a free Khmer dancing show — not that kind of show!! it was actually really good. I was expecting it to be shit since it was free.

The following day i move to a cheaper guest house and go out to see the temple. No words can explain the temple — you just have to go some day. You had to get use to the annoying young girls trying to sell things to you. I had on girl ask me if i want water — no book — no…. then she said well what do you want?? i said an ice cream… and walked over to the ice cream van….she couldn’t help me with that one. I spent two days walking around these temples. On the third day, i went out quickly in the morning and looked at two smaller ones. I needed new break pads, air filter cleaned and i was confused about the amount of oil i seam to be getting through. So i found an ex pat, who was going to show me a motorbike shop. Sop i met up with him and he told me some good roads to do in the south and took me to the motorbike shop. I gasket was still leaking oil so i got him to do that too. all for 20 bucks i got new oil a gasket replace, a new tube and my air filter cleaned.

By now i was sick of the tourist, the hagglers and i was spending more money than i normally do. I think it was time to get going. I hit the road heading for Palin, but with and over night stop at Sisopan. The road between Sisopan and Siem Reap, was the pits for a main road. it took me three hours to complete 150kms. From Sisopan i couldn’t find the turn off to Palin, so i took one. it turned into a rice paddy field and so i ended up driving down the field until i got to a road. I knew there was a back road that i was meant to be on, which i found. It was nice to follow a off nice clean road for a change, i only got lost towards Palin, where the road turned to nothing… and i had to ask for directions. I got to Palin late in the afternoon. That night i had dinner with two Khmer people who worked out my guest house. The cleaner said she use to get paid $59 a month now they have cut their wages down to $15. I was told that things got stolen in this guest house… now i know why.

Its the Khmer New Year tonight and I’m going to be in Batdambang. I arrived with no hassles, i go out for dinner and i see a girl eating by her self. I ask if i can join her, but she said she is about to go. But after going on the Internet she would like to meet up. So we do. But the Khmer new year, is something you don’t need you party shoes on for, as it was all over at 9pm.

Riding down to Phnom Penh was uneventful… i stop for the night at Kampong Chnang where there are floating villages… i got into Phnom Penh quite early. Since it was the Khmer new year, the traffic was great! I settle into a guest house and meet some great people. Who i spent my birthday with.

I dropped my bike of at Erik’s house, a guy i met earlier in my Cambodia travels. Hes going to look after it for me and a few of my things i don’t need for Vietnam.

When i get back from Vietnam, i get my bike service, hopefully sort out the burning oil problem and i found a bigger tank — a 14l one. which is fantastic.

So here goes… Vietnam.

Here are a link to my Cambodia photos.

lost and found in the same minute
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=110140&l=2e545&id=776195276

burning oil
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=110146&l=eddd8&id=776195276

I brought a 67 Honda SS-50
its my new love of my love….. i do have to take it easy going up hills!!
beening a 50cc bike.

Im wondering if you could do me a favour?
To get into Russia for three months i require a letter of invitation made by citizen or resident of the Russian Federation by means of local office of Russian Ministry of Interior.
Are you able to recommend a company that can do that for me?


Danielle

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Hey,
my new bike for vietnam
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=113179&l=e3290&id=776195276
vietnam photos
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=113449&l=b00a3&id=776195276

these should work for you…. hopefully.

I’m just leaving Hanoi this morning heading for sapa the long way round. mai chu is my first stop.

Thanks a lot for helping me… the Russian embassy wants airline tickets, and when i explained to them i couldn’t give them that — i was motorbike in and out of the country, they were a bit stumped! Ill be back in Cambodia then, getting my bike fixed up for the next part of my journey and of course arranging flights to South Korea.

have fun in Halong Bay. Im not going there this time as im running out of time. you will see from my photos what kind of bike im riding. its so small i have to travel really slowly!!

Thanks a lot
Danielle

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Hey,

Well i have finally got my Russian invitation, so that i can now apply for my visa!! The invitation just arrived yesterday — so finally i can arrange my bike to be transported to South Korea. Today, i am running around trying to find the customs office, but that’s harder than it seams….

So, for the last month i have been here in Phnom Penh, doing some more traveling and helping out with some orphanages. Some of my friends here work in a couple full time, so i join in when i don’t have to chase paper work.

I also spend a few days on an Island relaxing, which was fantastic!

I have my motorbike has been worked on and i am ready to go again. I’m really looking forward to Russia and Mongolia. I have been doing research, on where i want to go and see, which is making me more excited!

I hope you are well,

Danielle

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«I also spend a few days on an Island relaxing, which was fantastic!»
Where is that island? in Sihanoukvill? And what’s name of island?

«helping out with some orphanages.Some of my friends here work in a couple full time, so i join in when i don’t have to chase paper work.»
It’s more interesting than job «architect»?
By the way, you can send photos of building designed by you? ))
It’s possible?

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Hi Sergey,

The island i was on was called Rabbit Island, which is off Kep. Much more quieter than Sihanoukvill!!

Today i went to an orphanage to help someone get a job there… it was great fun playing games. tomorrow i am helping take some children to the zoo, which also will be great! I’m looking forward to it.

Most of my buildings are still getting build at the moment. I should receive a couple of photos in the next couple of months. When I left Brisbane, i had about 4 jobs starting construction. I am hoping they are going well! I have been touching base with my old company in Brisbane, so ill ask then to see how they are going….

Danielle

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